By Becky Billingsley
Crady's Restaurant in Conway has changed and expanded over the years, but what remains the same is its extreme good taste in food and décor.
Warm, soft teal walls have silhouetted frosted art on them, and dashes of vivid floral orange liven up the tables. An historic touch is the strip of vintage-look pressed tin below the crown moulding.
Any seat in the dining room has a great view of the bustle of Conway's Main Street.
In the bar area is a flouncy and frilly apron in a display case. Partner/baker Barbara Whitley said the apron was made by her mother, Najgy Crady.
Najgy?
Barbara says she isn't sure how her mother came to have such an unusual first name, but family legend has it that her great-great grandfather was a Sioux chief - none other than Sitting Bull, and Najgy is a Native American name. But you know how family legends go, Barbara says with a laugh and a shrug. A more practical-sounding explanation she heard was that her grandparents boarded teachers, one of whom was named Najgy, and their baby girl was named after her.
However she got her name, Najgy Crady was an excellent cook, which is why the restaurant is named after her. Barbara learned well at her mother's side, because today her baked goods are renowned.
The treats vary according to Barbara's fancy. Some days there might be Carrot Cupcakes topped with creamy peaks of cream cheese frosting; other times the Goodie of the Day is mini Blackberry Pies perfect for two people to share. Her layer cakes are luxurious, like the Layered Chocolate Cake with white chocolate buttercream, raspberry jam and chocolate ganache. If you thought you didn't like fruitcake then you've never tasted Barbara's, for which she takes advance orders during the winter holiday season.
Barbara's husband, Les, her daughter, Heather Whitley, and her late son, Adam Whitley, are the other parts of the equation that contributed to Crady's success. The family has become known for lunchtime entrée salads, such as Grilled Asparagus Salad over fresh spinach with roasted red peppers and pine nuts with warm lemon thyme dressing. Other lunch favorites include Mustard Fried Pork Tenderloin with black pepper gravy and stone-ground grits; Quiche of the Day; and the Crady's Wrap with grilled chicken, cranberry sauce, Romaine lettuce, pecans, and spicy brown mustard.
Lunch selections average $6 - $9.
Dinner choices are a celebration of fine Southern dining. The meal can start with Shrimp, Crab and Corn Fritters with spicy chipotle dipping sauce; or Collard Green Won Tons with hot mustard and vinegar dipping sauce.
There are four special dinnertime salads, like the Baby Arugula Salad with a saute of wild mushrooms, curls of freshly shaved Parmesan and mellow-yet-tangy balsamic dressing.
Entrees ($14 - $23, come with mixed greens salad, starch and vegetable) are luxurious, such as Salmon with mushroom ragout and corn pudding; Lump Crab Cakes with whole grain mustard cream and buttermilk mashed potatoes; and Grilled Bone-in Pork Chop with apple cider brandy glazed served with a side of blue mac 'n' cheese.
Just that blue cheese macaroni dish is worth a trip to Crady's if you enjoy blue cheese. It features ziti noodles and a light infusion of cheese, and the noodles are baked until their edges are delicately crispy-browned.
Crady's is also open for Sunday brunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. It's an a la carte menu with prices from $6 - $9, and a few of those choices are Eggs Benedict topped with lump crab meat and served with grilled asparagus over grits; Croque Monsieur, which is a battered ham and cheese sandwich; and Bronzed Flounder with mustard bacon butter.
A new offering that is growing in popularity is a series of cooking classes held on the fourth Saturdays of each month. The events are $40 each and include meals and hands-on culinary lessons. Crady's also often has multi-course wine dinners; the most recent one was $55 per person.
Crady's is at 332 Main St. in Conway, across from the Theatre of the Republic. The number is 843-248-3321, and you can see the entire menu at CradysRestaurant.com.
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