Posted on Sep 09, 2009 - 10:00 PM

Beach Blog Restaurant Spotlight: Pacino’s Turns a Corner

By Becky Billingsley

Pacino's Mediterranean Grille celebrated its third anniversary in June, and owner/operator Rania Kawar says she feels confident saying - with a big sigh of contented relief - that her vision is a success.

After almost 20 years in the information technology business, Kawar made her dream come true of owning a small, cozy, neighborhood restaurant serving exquisite and affordable food. Of course, making the neighborhood realize she was offering all that takes work.

She and Chef Steve Fisher got busy in the kitchen. Kawar is Lebanese, and she put specialties such as Falafel, Hummus, Baba Ghanouj, Stuffed Grape Leaves, Tabbouleh and Kibbeh on the menu. Chef Fisher is Italian, and he inspires dishes like Lasagna, Eggplant Parmesan, Grouper Piccata, Chicken Marsala and Veal Saltimbocca.

Then there are dishes that blend Middle Eastern and European flavors, such as Pacino's occasional special of Crispy Spaghetti Bruchetta. They even have a few American dishes, like Spinach and Artichoke Dip, Grilled Tuna Steak Salad and Shrimp Cocktail.

Another important task was to make diners feel welcome. Kawar made a point of remembering customers' names and what they drink. Sometimes if diners forget the name of a wine they like they tell the server, "Just ask Rania. She knows what I like."

The staff also puts much effort into keeping the restaurant clean - the small kitchen is well-organized and spotless, and the dining room is a showcase of tidiness without appearing fussy or formal.

But there is much more to owning a restaurant than mere organization. Kawar had to learn how much food to order, who to contact for repairs and how not to get ripped off. The hardest lesson, she says, was learning how to prepare for the unexpected.

"You can only read so much, learn so much," she says. "You have to live it day to day to know what to do when the A/C goes out, when a waitperson doesn't show up, or your food order is short. You can't plan for everything; but it's those little things that just pop up out of nowhere. You have to have contingency plans for things.

"But it's been a very rewarding experience, with all the hard work and effort, watching the business grow. We're breaking our own records. We closed August as our third-highest month since we opened. I thank God every day and I thank our customers every day."

Most of those customers are locals, many of them transplants from northern locales.

"We have true Italians from New York, the Bronx, who say our marinara is just like their grandmother made," Kawar said. "I give Steve credit for the sauce. He makes it every day. We don't cook it for hours, so it has a nice fresh taste from lots of fresh tomatoes. I won't cut corners. Quality is what's important. During difficult times we tightened our belts, but not when it came to the quality of the food or the portion sizes."

One of their best-selling dishes is Chicken Trattoria, which is chicken breast stuffed with provolone cheese and a mixture of escarole, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, onion and Pecorino Romano cheese. It is rolled, seared and baked, and then topped with white wine mushroom cream reduction and served with a side of pasta. The Lasagna also sells well - the massive portion weighs at least a pound - and is loaded with cheeses and a blend of sausage and house-made meatballs.

But while some diners have their favorites and don't often deviate from them, other customers love that they can choose from a variety of dishes representing two distinctly different cuisines. One night you can have Mozzarella Caprese and Shrimp Scampi, and the next visit switch to Mjadara (lentils, rice and caramelized onions topped with crispy onion and served with pita bread) and Beef Shawarma (thinly sliced beef and tomato chunks marinated in spices, olive oil and red wine vinegar, then baked, and served with hummus and pita).

Early dining specials have been phenomenally popular and help keep seats filled all evening. From 4:30 to 6 p.m., diners can get two meals for $15. Entrees are chosen from a special early dining list, and each comes with a choice of house salad or soup and a small cannoli. A few of the entrée choices are Manicotti, Spaghetti and Sausage, Eggplant Rollatini, Lasagna and Chicken Parmesan. Another popular period is on Friday and Saturday nights when "Keyboard Tommy" performs background music.

"Sometimes he starts singing," Kawar says, "and customers might sing with him."

The menu offers several vegetarian selections, and Kawar is proud of her wine list with more than 60 selections. Bottles average $20-$42, and glasses are $5-$6.50. In the spring they offer special wine dinners with extraordinary dishes showcasing the restaurant's unique blend of Lebanese, Italian and American influences.

But while business success is necessary for survival, what gratifies Kawar the most is the immediate results she sees and hears from customers - something of which she saw little or nothing in the IT world.

"I'm hearing their moans of enjoyment, seeing smiles on their faces," she says. "Once they come in, they're hooked."

Pacino's is at 3103 U.S. 17 Business S. in Garden City, and the number is (843) 651-0532. They're open for dinner from 4:30 p.m. to close Mondays through Saturdays.