Posted on Aug 14, 2009 - 09:46 AM

Beach Blog Restaurant Spotlight: Savoring the Seasons at SeaBlue

By Becky Billingsley

If Ken Norcutt and Tracy Smith could tell potential customers one thing about their dramatically romantic restaurant, it would be "We aren't just a tapas restaurant any more."

When Michael and Kelly Graham opened SeaBlue in 2004, they embraced the tapas concept and created a menu full of the small plates featuring global cuisines. Since new owners Norcutt and Smith bought the restaurant two years ago, the menu has changed to include USDA Prime steaks and full-size "Signature Plate" entrees.

What hasn't changed is a commitment to using fresh locally produced foods whenever possible, a stellar wine list and the sexy underwater décor.

"We use only local organic produce," Norcutt said on a recent Tuesday afternoon. "We use fresh local fish and USDA Prime or above."

Which begs the question, "What is above USDA Prime?" since Prime comprises the top two percent of beef echelons. The answer is Kobe or Wagyu beef, and Australian Wagyu is also on the SeaBlue menu.

And although Smith and Norcutt offer fresh local grouper and other local fresh catches, they also bring in delicacies from throughout the U.S. and the world, such as Georges Banks scallops from Massachusetts and Dover Sole from the English Channel.

"We use the finest and rarest ingredients known to culinary arts," Norcutt said as he sprinkled red clay sea salt and Hawaiian black lava salt on Branzini, which is black sea bass poached in bouillon and topped with chopped Grecian olives.

The restaurant does still have several Small Plates, such as Crab Cakes served with remoulade and haricot vert (tiny young green beans); Kobe Beef Sliders dressed in smoked gouda cheese, sliced tomatoes and Dijon mustard; Day Boat Scallops served with a sangria drizzle and accompanied by exotic mushrooms and asparagus slivers; and Osso Buco Ravioli with cremini mushroom sauce.

Salads and Spreads are in one category of the menu, which makes sense if you enjoy meals of salads and nibbles. SeaBlue has a spacious covered patio perfect for enjoying Grilled Caesar Salad with a side of Garlic and Parmesan Spread. Add a glass of cool Sartori di Verona Pinot Grigio, and you have the perfect antidote for a sultry summer day.

While dining light on sumptuous fare is sometimes what diners want and need, other days there are bigger hungers to be addressed. That's when Norcutt, Executive Chef Edward Shuttleworth and Sous-Chef James Hansen step in to create their Signature Plates designed to satiate appetites in style.

The Dover Sole for which they are known is filleted tableside, as is the whole fish of the day. Macadamia Crusted Grouper is served with lobster risotto, haricot vert and Madagascar vanilla beurre blanc; Fruits de Mer features lobster, scallops and shrimp in lobster broth; and Mahi-Mahi is seasoned with a Creole touch and comes with risotto cake, spinach and gazpacho puree.

The chefs also offer Muscovy Duck from Ashley Farms that they coat in espresso powder and sear, and serve with Cherry-Grand Marnier pan sauce, wilted spinach and a Chevre-polenta layered Napoleon; and a full Rack of Lamb with a porcini mushroom crust accompanied by portabello jus, smoked tomato jam, haricot vert and Tuscan roasted potatoes.

Then there are the steaks. There are only a handful of local restaurants that offer USDA Prime or better, and SeaBlue has Prime Filet Mignon, New York Strip and Ribeye Chop, plus Australian Wagyu Filet Mignon. All steaks come with roasted garlic mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus, but they can also be served Oscar-style with colossal lump crab meat and Hollandaise sauce or with a gorgonzola cheese crust, foie gras butter, red wine demi-glace, aged balsamic syrup, herb butter, au Poivre (pepper coated) or with sautéed mushrooms.

A la carte side dishes include wilted organic spinach, potato-truffle puree, truffle macaroni and cheese, and potatoes Dauphinois. Desserts such as Crème Brulee or Gelato served with a cookie basket can be enjoyed with a variety of ports and digestifs.

Such splendid food is enhanced by the surroundings. SeaBlue has been known as a romantic hotspot since it opened, and Smith and Norcutt have continued that tradition. But with new owners comes a fresh perspective, so some décor alterations have taken place.

The front entryway has a cozy little lounge area, and the dining room's walls now shimmer with two tones of sylvan blue. Tables are set with unique water glasses that are actually fluted pilsners, and the cutlery is a pleasant medium-weight Cimarron pattern from Libbey.

The mood is sultry with a long dramatic line of banquette-backed tables set with candles ensconced in bubbly blue glass, a central saltwater aquarium that divides the bar from the dining area, and the cozy booth in the back that's partitioned off to make it the perfect spot for a romantic tete-a-tete.

SeaBlue Restaurant is at 503 U.S. 17 in North Myrtle Beach, and the number is (843) 249-8800. Their Web site is SeaBlueOnline.com.

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