Cypress Room Affords Comfortable Gentility
By Becky Billingsley
Normally I don't adopt a first-person tone for these restaurant reviews, but I am breaking form this week so you can fully appreciate the gastronomic delight a friend and I experienced at the Cypress Room inside the Island Vista Resort in Myrtle Beach.
We knew the meal would be delicious, but had no idea the food created by Executive Chef Mike McKinnon would be what my dedicated foodie friend called, "The Best Meal of My Life." The chef has earned several culinary awards for his talents, and after our dinner we fully understand why.
The Cypress Room is an elegant oceanfront dining room with a sweeping first-floor view of the ocean. Just outside the windows is a patio area with tables, and my friend and I agree it would be a perfect spot for a sunset cocktail. Inside, the ambiance is upscale casual where jacketed servers afford unobtrusive, prompt and warmly friendly service. The decor is sleekly wooden; look up and you'll see a honeyed cypress kaleidoscope ceiling.
To start we tried a Bruschetta Trio on toasted baguette slices resting on a bed of ruffled greens. Each piece had a different topping: tomato-olive relish, Portabello mushrooms and Tuscan white beans, which were tangy with a rich umami savoriness. A wandering stripe of balsamic syrup around the plate's inner rim had us daubing our bites in its sweetness, and I admit to sticking my finger in the balsamic a couple times to get a mouthful of pure pleasure.
My friend, who is a recipe goddess with a successful blog, had the She-Crab Soup and moaned with pleasure over each spoonful.
"It's like foam," she said. "I've lived here all my life and I've never had She-Crab Soup this good. Look at all the crab meat in there!"
Other meal starters include an Artisan Cheese Plate, Shrimp and Grits with red eye gravy, and Crispy Fried Oysters with roasted red pepper remoulade.
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With your entree comes a choice of spinach, Caesar or mixed green salad. I had mixed greens with the house ginger sesame dressing; and the staff kindly granted my friend's request to have a little of the toppings from their Baby Spinach Salad (brie, blueberries, cornbread croutons) on her spinach side salad. We both loved every bite.
The entree list is a fun romp of creative combinations for all your favorite foods. We both chose from a section where you get to create your own meal. There are eight grilled steak or fish choices and seven sauces from which to choose, and then you pick how you want your meat or seafood cooked: grilled, sauteed, pan blackened or fried. Then you get to choose two of 10 side dishes: Spinach, Shallots and Bacon; Steamed Broccoli; Herb Buttered Carrots; Sauteed Mushrooms; Asparagus Spears; Shallot Mashed Potatoes; Baked Potato; Citrus Rice Pilaf Medley; Pasta Noodles; and Macaroni and Cheese.
I picked medium rare ribeye and my buddy chose grouper. We both had the spinach and the mashed potatoes. Our wonderful server granted our request to try four of the sauces.
This is when other diners looked a little askance at us as we made a harmony of happy hungry noises. The ribeye had delectable crispy edges, and dipping a bite in Chef McKinnon's Horseradish Cream sauce was a roasted-meat-meets-smooth-spice delight. His Béarnaise was also swoon-worthy, with an almost custard quality without the thickness.
The choice blackened grouper portion was plump and meaty, and although the menu recommended lighter sauces with the fish, we enjoyed it with Madeira wine and peppercorn sauces.
Then the server brought around the "passing dish," which is a Southern tradition where a special side dish is a little bonus. In our lucky case, it was Sweet Potato Casserole, and we both think it was the best of its kind we've ever had the unabashed delight to eat. The potato part was whipped to silken smoothness, and the crunchy brown sugar/butter/pecan topping was a crumbling/crispy delight. I am going to find out if I can order a pan of it next Thanksgiving.
Eight "Chef's Specialties" round out the entree choices. A Stuffed Pork Chop comes with macaroni and cheese, braised cabbage, caramelized apples and apple cider jus reduction, while Seared Diver Scallops are accompanied by wild mushroom-bacon risotto, roasted carrots, asparagus and sweet corn broth.
We had to leave before dessert, but plan to go back for Pecan Pie with Bourbon Crème Anglaise; Crème Brulee with Raspberries and Mint; Triple Chocolate Mousse Walnut Torte with Tarragon Syrup and Strawberries; Cobbler of the Day; Raspberry Cheesecake with Raspberry Coulis; and Apple Tartlet with Crisp Topping and Caramel Sauce. In fact I think an evening of desserts accompanied by specialty coffee drinks, port and cognac would be a fine use of an evening, especially if enjoyed out on that oceanfront veranda.
The Cypress Room at Island Vista Resort (www.IslandVista.com) is at 6000 N. Ocean Blvd. in Myrtle Beach, and the number is (888) 733-7581. It's open daily for breakfast and dinner.
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