Posted on Mar 19, 2010 - 11:05 AM

Wild Game in the Black River

Story and Photos by Becky Billingsley

The treats just keep coming at Black River Grill. The restaurant known for wild game is currently featuring northern seafood appealing to snowbirds, transplants and anyone who loves terrific clams and fish.

Chef/proprietor Kurt Klepper is offering Maine Steamers, which are clams that can be served roasted or as fried bellies, plus walleye and freshwater jumbo yellow perch. Both the steamed clams and fried bellies are exceedingly tender, flavorful and mouth-wateringly delicious. Roasted steamers are served with drawn butter and clam broth.

Chef Klepper works under the KISS method (“Keep it Simple, Stupid”), and the result is simply fabulous meals.

Local diners are catching on that this place is a lively bistro. Many people are anticipating enjoying fine spring weather by eating outside on the patio. But the view inside is also fine: The chef’s sister, Sarah Klepper-Guess, is a professional photographer who ran with the Black River theme and produced gorgeous black-and-white photography depicting areas around Georgetown and Murrells Inlet. Diners are surrounded by live oaks, boat landings, waterscapes and landscapes.

Be sure to visit the cozy bar area to see more pictures, and if you are in the mood for finger food you may want to settle in there to take advantage of the reduced-price bar menu.

The local photos, plus the low-key wrought iron black, stainless steel and terra cotta color scheme set a laid-back tone for a menu that is comfortable and reliable. The list is full of Lowcountry standards and exciting regional innovation.

Kurt Klepper is not a restaurant newbie. His previous experience in the Grand Strand area includes seven years as a manager at Joe’s Crab Shack and at Buckhead Colorado Steakhouse, which specialized in wild game.

The all-day menu has a broad range of choices. Three house soups ($4.75-$5.95) are Kickin’ Crab Corn Chowder, Tomato Basil Bisque and She Crab Soup. The chowder is a house favorite because while it does kick with heat, it doesn’t hurt.

Photo Gallery

Coconut-coated Lobster is a luxurious treat with an economical price.Photo Credit: Becky Billingsley

Maine Steamers are new on the menu at Black River Grill.Photo Credit: Becky Billingsley

Chocolate lovers will enjoy this pie from Hershey, Penn., served at Black River GrillPhoto Credit: Becky Billingsley

Black River Grill is known for serving game meats such as this seared duck.Photo Credit: Becky Billingsley

Four salads ($2.45-$2.95) span a Dinner Salad and Caesar Salad, and smaller side versions of them. Any salad can be topped with fried, grilled or blackened chicken, steak or shrimp.

An incredible appetizer is Crab-Stuffed Jalapenos. That's because Klepper uses fresh jalapenos and stuffs them with his own blend of crab, cream cheese, Monterey Jack cheese and sprinkles of culinary pixie dust. Other tempting appetizers ($5.95-$11.95) include coconut breaded Lobster Bites, Beer Boiled Shrimp, Oysters Rockefeller and Sesame Seared Tuna crusted with black and white sesame seeds and served rare.

Coconut Lobster and Sesame Seared Tuna can also be served as sandwiches ($6.75-$12.95). The lobster sandwich comes in a crunchy coconut coating with plum sauce and a mango slice. All sandwiches come with fries and a pickle, and other choices include French Dip, Prime Rib, Grouper, Philly Steak, Black & Blue Burger, Grilled Chicken, Portabello, and the popular Black River Burger with smoked gouda cheese, sautéed portabellos, onions, peppers and apple wood smoked bacon.

Popular dinner entrees include seared duck and prime rib. That prime rib ($9.95-$18.95) is Certified Angus aged a minimum of 21 days by Buckhead Beef and rubbed with a secret spice blend.

Side veggies are not your usual sautéed zucchini; it’s a colorful and flavorful mixture of yellow carrots, red bell peppers, tender young green beans and tiny broccoli florets. The Potato Casserole is a delightful change from a baked potato, and its creamy fluffiness is infused with sour cream, bacon, Cheddar cheese and garlic.

Desserts are not house-made, but are creditable. Key Lime Pie, shipped in from Mike’s Pies in Key West, has a consistency between cheesecake and custard, and the filling’s pleasant tartness is balanced by the thick graham cracker crust’s sweetness. Chocolate lovers might want a slice of chocolate-peanut butter ecstasy called Reese’s Peanut Butter Pie from Sweet Streets near Hershey, Pennsylvania.

Black River Grill is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily, and the number is 843-750-0296. It's at 1000 S. Commons Drive, in an outparcel in front of the Surfside Beach-area Lowe's Home Improvement off U.S. 17 Bypass.