Friendly Fine Dining at Aspen Grille
By Becky Billingsley
It isn't often a restaurant strikes all the right culinary chords to achieve exemplary food, a cozy and genteel ambiance and a wait staff that provides professional and friendly service, but Aspen Grille in Myrtle Beach is one of the best of its kind.
Chef Curry Martin, a graduate of Johnson & Wales University's culinary arts program, became the owner of this already popular restaurant in the summer of 2009, and he has enhanced its reputation. Previously he worked extensively in the restaurant and wine industries in North Carolina, Napa Valley and France.
As his French peers do, Chef Martin visits local farmer's markets, farms and seafood houses to find fresh local ingredients for his menus that change seasonally with the crops. His dishes embrace South Carolina food traditions with classic fine dining preparation methods.
This means meals can start with a Carolina Crab Cake made with sweet local jumbo lump blue crab meat that's served with black-eyed peas, a spring onion salad and roasted red pepper remoulade. Fresh chilled oysters on the half-shell may be ordered Rockefeller style or with mignonette granite; or classic Escargot can be enjoyed with mushroom caps, garlic butter and Parmesan toast.
Two soups are always served, and currently they are French Onion served with a Gruyere crust, and Lobster Bisque with sherry. Salads can be classic (house, Caesar) or inspirational, like Spinach and Caramelized Apple Salad with toasted pecans, blue cheese, smoked bacon and house-made vinaigrette. In that dish, the delicately sweet crust on the apples is balanced by the slight tang of the dressing, and when paired as the chef suggested with Trullo Riesling, the savoriness is memorable.
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Many of the entrees are true to the Carolina heritage, such as Eden Farms "Berkshire" Pork Tenderloin with Hoppin' John risotto, Swiss chard and apple cider jus; or a deftly flavored Crab-stuffed Flounder and Shrimp served atop a fresh okra, corn and tomato ragout.
The fish of the day is what the chef finds to be the freshest selection local fishermen can provide, and steaks are U.S.D.A. Prime. Realizing that occasionally diners prefer smaller portions than normally provided, some dishes are offered in medium or main plate sizes including Shrimp and Grits, or Seared Sea Scallops served with mushroom risotto, sautéed spinach and white wine butter sauce.
If Chef Martin has any of his braised dishes on the menu, know they are tender symphonies of flavors such as in Braised Beef Short Ribs accompanied by celery root puree, sauteed local greens and braising jus. Even better, try that dish with Bishops Peak Cabernet Sauvignon.
Side dishes are big enough for sharing and include choices such as Creamed or Sautéed Spinach, Stone Ground Grits, Fresh Asparagus and Roasted Potatoes. If dessert is on your mind, scratch selections are always on hand such as Apple Cobbler topped with Wholly Cow Peppermint Stick Ice Cream.
The space such fare is served in is part of the pleasurable experience. Diners in the main room can see the staff working through an exposition wall, or they may be secluded in a high-backed and enormous round VIP booth. All tables are set with linens, crystal and cutlery with pleasing heft, and diners will receive black or white linen napkins depending which one better matches their clothing. If you leave the table during the meal, your napkin will be refolded when you return.
The bar area is always lively with locals and visitors who seek convivial conversations and luxurious libations. Sultry, swinging and jazzy music is performed live on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.
Aspen Grille (www.aspen-grille.com) is open starting at 4:30 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays from September to May, and daily from June through August. It's at 5101 N. Kings Highway in Myrtle Beach, and the number is (843) 449-9191.
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