Posted on Oct 29, 2009 - 04:01 PM

Ruth’s Chris is Classically Impeccable

By Becky Billingsley

It's as if the staff at Ruth's Chris Steak House is a cast preparing a stage for a nightly show. And what a spectacular show it is, if you're into Food Theater. These are drama dishes.

Although the restaurant doesn't open until 5 p.m., staff is there all day prepping for the evening. A hostess is on duty starting early in the afternoon. Kitchen employees are chopping and cleaning. The chef might be tending his rooftop herb and tomato garden or nailing down his order for asparagus that's exactly 7 inches long with a quarter-inch base. The bartender polishes glasses and even bottles, and the general manager tidies up inside and out, ensuring no stray scraps mar his driveway, floors or tables.

While the menu does change seasonally and executive chef Mike Marques creates regional specials such as She-Crab Soup, the restaurant's reputation is founded on classic dishes that fans know they'll always be able to order: Big juicy prime steaks, lamb chops, jumbo shrimp, enormous baked potatoes and house-made classic vanilla cheesecake perfection.

It's all classically impeccable, starting with dishes such as Oysters Rockefeller, sizzling blackened Jumbo Scallops, or a Crabtini containing colossal lump crabmeat where each lump is as big as a woman's thumb. The crabmeat is tossed in light and creamy citrus vinaigrette that will make you remember the meal, talk about it often and yearn for more.

Even the salads leave people begging for repeat visits. It's one thing to have a salad; it's quite another to experience an iceberg lettuce wedge so crisp it snaps, or a chopped salad that's a joy to explore with choice morsels such as hearts of palm, blue cheese, sliced red onions, green olives, crispy fried onion and more.

Seafood selections are a handful of thoughtfully chosen dishes. The Ahi Tuna Stack is served rare with that colossal lump crabmeat and red pepper pesto, while an entrée of three Crab Cakes defines a crab lover's fantasy. There are Fresh Wild Salmon with Thai chili butter, Barbecue Shrimp in a white wine, butter and garlic sauce; and Chilean Sea Bass with Garlic Crust. Lobster fans can choose from whole live specimens from Maine, or succulent Caribbean tails.

A poultry dish exemplifies premium simplicity with an oven roasted free-range double chicken breast stuffed with garlic herb cheese; while the Grilled Portabello Mushrooms entree is served with additional exemplary vegetables.

But the stars of this show are the steaks and chops.

The Petite Filet has a hearty starring role for many guests' meals. An especially popular choice with hungry golfers is the enormous Cowboy Ribeye, which is marbled and served bone-in for extra flavor. The 40-ounce Porterhouse is billed as big enough for two, while the New York Strip and T-Bone provide a beefy supporting cast.

For those who can't choose between steak and seafood, the Tournedos and Shrimp pairs jumbo shrimp with two four-ounce filet medallions. Diners who appreciate the juiciness and flavor of chops may pick between extra thick marinated Lamb Chops, or a marinated Veal Chop bought to the table sizzling.

This fall and winter Ruth's Chris has a special prix fixe menu where an appetizer, entrée, side dish and dessert is $39.95. For the first course diners may choose from three salads or Louisiana Seafood Gumbo. Four entrée selections include Filet and Shrimp; Stuffed Chicken Breast; Braised Short Ribs; and a daily fresh salmon dish. Side items are Baked Corn Pudding, Mashed Potatoes, Creamed Spinach, Sautéed Mushrooms or Green Beans with Roasted Garlic; while the Fall Dessert Symphony is a Dessert Duo of Carrot Cake and a Chocolate Cup filled with Chocolate Mousse.

Of course many guests want to enjoy such meals with fine wine, and the Ruth's Chris wine by the glass menu offers five sparklings, a dozen whites and 22 luxurious reds priced from $7 to $26. A fine wine cellar is also available, or diners are welcome to bring their own bottles of wine. A corkage fee applies.

The bar at Ruth's Chris is roomy yet cozy. A stunning and shimmering black and tan marble bar top wraps around a work station where mixologists squeeze fresh juices and pour premium liquors. With tables, booths and bar seating, the room has a clubby, pubby feel with comfortable and attractive appointments.

The décor throughout Ruth's Chris is understated elegance with muted colors and behind-the-scenes amenities. The central main dining room has an interesting angle to it, with the angle's dramatic line filled with booths. Behind the tables in that room is an enormous fireplace mantel of carved cream stone. Off to the side, facing a marina and the Intracoastal Waterway, is a sun porch, and between that room and the bar is a pleasant al fresco patio. That patio is an excellent spot in which to enjoy half-price Prime Bites appetizers during Happy Hour and watch the sun set over the Grande Dunes marina and golf course.

The side porch is often reserved for private functions such as wedding showers, but Ruth's Chris also has four meeting rooms at the restaurant's rear. These rooms have sliding walls between them so they can offer a cozy place for a board of directors to meet and dine; or be expanded into a space big enough for a wedding reception. Full technological functionality offers computer linkage, a ceiling-mounted projector and a large pull-down presentation screen.

But in addition to the luxuriousness of the Ruth's Chris tradition is a commitment to providing value. Diners may split entrees for no additional charge, and sometimes regulars will stop by the bar for Happy Hour drink prices and to split a burger.

Throughout Ruth's Chris prevails an attitude of personal attention to detail and self-regulation. They even pay to undergo unannounced quarterly inspections from a private auditing company that checks everything from the cleanliness of restroom corners to whether there are cobwebs under a patio chair.

Nothing is left to chance, and the only thing guests know about it is a seamless evening of fine food, libations, laughter and conversation.

Ruth's Chris Steak House is at 8760 Marina Parkway in Myrtle Beach, beside the Marina Inn at Grande Dunes, and the number is (843) 839-9500. Dinner is served 5-10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 5-11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and 5-9 p.m. Sundays.

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